Friday, October 9, 2015

Dolma, Dharamshala.


“I used to be a guide in Tibet and I have easy life. Good money, good house and good food. Everything is perfect except for one. And that one is, we don’t have freedom.

Therefore, I came to India.  Life is difficult in India but the good thing is that Dalai Lama is right beside me. I have freedom. Even though I am having a hard life, I am happy.

I have this small stall where I sell fried potato, which is 30rs per plate. It is the only source of income for me, for my daughter and for my cousin who is only 12 years old. 

This idea of selling fried potato when I was thinking about what can I do in Dharamshala. There are a lot of expenses, rent, electricity and so on. I am so happy that Yangchen is so kind to have me one of her stall.  We always spend time talking while there are no customers.

Most of my customers are Tibetan. But this business is very new in the community. In Tibet, this business is so good. There were so many success stories. So, I am just trying my luck.

What problems I have? So many, ha ha ha ha ha. Seriously so many of them. But these entire problems are not such a big problem. When I think about those people who don’t have eyes or legs and begging on the street. I feel happy. So, even though I have a lot of problem, it is all right! I can handle it! I am old enough to handle these problems.

Everything is good about McLeod Ganj. It is perfect. Yet, sometimes the business is very slow.  Especially, when it is monsoon. I can’t even open the stall. Well, that’s all.

I am the one who sells potato on the street leaving the good house, good food, good life in Tibet simply because all I want is to be near to His Holiness and have freedom. So I am happy. “

NOTE: Dolma’s stall is few second down from the post office.

Dolma, Dharamshala.

Interview and photo: Kunsang Tenzing

Pasang, Dharamshala.


“ I used to work in a restaurant owned by Sera monastery. That time, even I lost one of my fingers while preparing noodles. That machine ate my finger! Ha ha ha hah. I came to India in the year of 1996.”

“I get up around 2 0r 3 am every day for the past 17 years. Wait, are you sure this is what you want to know? OK then. Well, yes, for the past 17 years my daily routine has been same.

You know, I am the cook of Gu-Chu-Sum. I am the only guy behind the food on table for 58 people. It is a lot of work.

I have been working for 17 years and 8 months now. Preparing 3 times meal, two-tea time is a lot of work for one guy.  I get an amount of 5000 Indian Rupee per month. (84US$)

Going back to my schedule, Yes, I get up around 2 or 3 am. Then prepare for the break fast. Usually, I make steam bread and sometimes, bread with tea. Once it is over, I have to clean the kitchen, do the dishes.

Than have to go and get vegetables for the lunch. Wash them, prepare them, fill the water tank.
Time flies, I have to cook lunch. Same thing, doing dishes, cleaning kitchen, prepare afternoon tea.
Again, it is time to prepare dinner.

Somehow, my work finishes around 8 and I usually go to sleep at 10pm.

Wow, even I am amazed when I think what I do every day. Can you believe it? For almost 18 years I followed the same routine. Moreover, I didn’t take any leave for whole this year! No sick leave, no holiday, no special leave, nothing.

“About my teeth,  ha ha ha ha, I am looking for someone to help and sponsor to fix my teeth! Ha ha ha ha ha. I don’t know how much it is though. "

Pasang, Dharamshala

Photo and Interview: Kunsang Tenzing.

Yanchen, Dharamshala.


“I don’t know what I can share, thus if you throw me questions, then I will throw you answers. Ha ha ha.

I came to India in the year of 2002. Here, I am living with my husband who is sick and has to be on constant medicine. My son, he is going to kinder garden now.

I get up around 3 am everyday to prepare ‘Laphing’. It has been around 6 years since I have been doing this business. It is tiring but I don’t have any other choice. I asked for help from the settlement office but didn’t get any. Thus, I gave up.  So, I have this stall where I sell these ‘Laphing’. Majority of my customers are Tibetan.  Sometimes, the business is so good that I finish selling everything by 11am and sometimes it is so bad that I have stay late night. I can’t sell the left over’s next day. Thus, I am not able to sell all of them on the same day, and then I will be in loss.

And you know, after paying the school fee, after paying the medical care for my husband, after paying the rent, after paying the electricity, not much is left! Thus, I don’t want to be in minus. If my business demands me to stay late night, I have to, as this is how my family survives.

Anyway, I don’t want to get too emotional and tell everything to you. Let us stop here. “

Yanghcen’s store is few steps after Post office.

Yanchen, Dharamshala.

Interview and Photo: Kunsang Tenzing.

Vijay, Dharamshala.


“I started my business when I was only 10. Now I am a proper shoe doctor. Beside from that, I also fix zips. I am really very good as shoe shining.

I am basically from Rajasthan. It has been several years since I moved to McLeod Ganj, Dharamshala. My wife and my daughter is in Rajasthan. I visit them once in a while. I am the only bread earner from my family. My daughter goes to school. I am happy that I am able to support my daughter’s education by cleaning shoes.

Here in Dharamshala, I stay in lower Dharamshala. Every morning I take bus to my stall and every evening, I walk. Even though it is 15 km away, it is a good walk as well as good for health. But monsoon season is not so good.

Being in Dharamshala is bit difficult as my family is miles away but when I think about the support that I am able to give from Dharamshala, I feel happy and a good father.

Dharamshala is good for my business. Lots of tourists are here. Yet, many things are changing. Now days, there are not many tourists and business is slow. Especially the cars, taxi and most of all, these big trucks rush up and down makes my little beautiful stall very dusty.

I have this stall right beside the road where there are dust every where, street dogs, cow dunks, trashes… I clean them everyday.  This place is holy for me. I pray every morning before I start my work.

I don’t have any dream. I am done with my life. I am able to support my whole families’ expenses. 
Now, I am left with only one job and that is, to help my daughter. That job is to help my daughter to build her dream. Once she is able to live her dream, then I will be very happy.

Vijay, Dharamshala.

Interview and Photo credit: Kunsang Tenzing.

Sarmila Magar, Dharamshala.


“I have 7 years experience in Tibetan Thanka. I have been doing it since when I was 18. My favorite  Thanka is Mandala, it was my first Thanka and even it is easy to draw. I love being in colour with my paintbrush. 

In Nepal, many people have this business. It is also one of the main sources of income for many Nepalese. Some people have huge business on Thanka. 

My husband has started doing Thanka when he was only 10! He is very good at Thanka. 

We moved to Dharamshala several years ago, as Dharamshala is much better than Nepal. Nepal is so dry and dirty. We prefer McLeod Ganj. My whole family is here right now, me, my husband and our daughter who is 9 years old now. We saved for several years to move to India. 

Finding the shop was quite difficult and expensive here. Thus, we found this space, not so far from the main road, not so expensive. We don’t have much item. We sell singing bowl and Tibetan Thanka. Soon, we are planning to come up with class. 

My husband, and me we don’t have a big dream. This is our dream. Selling thanka. Living our life. Well, we don’t know what our daughter has in her mind. That is something, which we can worry once she grows up.

Life here is peaceful. It is clam and much better than Nepal. I am happy being here. My neighbours, they are all nice people."

Sarmila Magar, Dharamshala. 

Interview and photo credit: Kunsang Tenzing.


Lion Man, Dharamshala.


“In this town and among my friends, I am known as Lion man. I do a show here every Wednesday, Friday and called Lion Man. I am always available for shows at any kind of event. I am sure that you have seen me dancing in middle of many crowds, especially when there are thousands of people. People, might be wondering why I am doing this. It is basically to entertain the mass. In Buddhism, we believe that making others happy brings good merit. Therefore, I am dancing to entertain them. I will keep on doing what I am doing right now. I love being an artist and I believe in myself. 

Dharamshala, is one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited besides Tibet. I am so proud to reside here as the Dalai Lama is here too. Also the Tibetan government in exile is here. I arrived here in the year of '98. That time, it was clean, quiet and a pleasant place. Many tourists come here to take a break amongst other reasons. Now many things have changed. 

It took me around a month to reach here. I walked almost 15 days to the border. We had 37 people in our group and two guides. The oldest one is 68 years old and the youngest one is 8 years old. We were a group from all over Tibet. Monks and Nuns. Men and Women. 
When, we reached here, we got to meet His Holiness. It was such a different feeling. It made me happy as well as sad. There were people crying and shouting, fainting, excited and lost. He looked so well and healthy. He welcomed us with a gentle smile. He added that we are welcome and now since we are in Dharamshala, we don’t have anything to worry about. Do your studies and be a good Tibetan. “

Tsering Dorjee (Lion Man), Dharamshala. 

Interview and Photograph: Kunsang Tenzing
Edit by: Yasmine Tanwidjaja-Pajares


Tenzin Dolma, Dharamshala.


 "i am a Tibetan fashion model based in New Delhi but from Dharamsala. I started my modelling career after becoming Miss Tibet 2007. This pageant really helped me to become more positive, independent and focused. So far I have worked with Indian editorial magazines such as Marie Claire, Harpers Bazaar, Grazia, Elle, Bazaar Bridal, Atelier, Fashion ethics etc. The modelling fashion industry is not as easy as it seems. You need a lot of patience to become a successful model.

I was born and brought up in Dharamsala and I feel fortunate to come from a place where His Holiness resides. I have noticed many changes about this place whenever I come home. I'm glad to see that Dharamsala is developing faster than I imagined it would. This place is full of peace and harmony. People here are very helpful, friendly and religious. I’m sure anyone who has visited Dharamsala once will definitely come again.

Well, I heard success changes people. It might have changed my outlook but I still feel that I am just a small town girl trying to make it in a big bad city. So far I am happy that I get to live my dream and I will keep moving on as the sky is the limit. I would love to see more Tibetan models in the Indian fashion industry. #yesyoucan "

Photograph by Wild Yak Studio
Interview by Kunsang Tenzin
Edited by Yasmine Tanwidjaja-Pajares


Tenzin Phuntsok,Dharamshala


"I was born in Lhasa. I am a city boy. I came to India as my aunt encouraged me to go there to study. I arrived to India in 1999. That time, I was only 10 years old. It took around two weeks to reach Dharamshala. The journey was light compared to other people, but the border patrol was something which always scared me.

The biggest challenge I face today in McLeod Ganj is that I live alone. Often I felt home sick, I felt lonely, I felt alone but it is something, which I have had to adapt to. 

McLeod Ganj is changing a lot. It used to be clam and peaceful as well as clean. Now look at this town! Yes, we can say that it has grown up from a small town to a city! But people who come here to travel; they are not taking care of this place. Garbage is everywhere, so many noisy cars! It is unbelievable! I wish and hope that people who come here to visit take care of this town and its natural surroundings more! 

It is very true that the Indian government has given us shelter and support. For this reason we are thankfully able to reside in Dharamshala. I know that even this little piece of land, McLeod Ganj belongs to India. Yet, I believe that we should have more understanding, more unity within the local community. You know what I mean, not like we are Tibetan or we are Indian, it is more about we are McLeod Ganjian! I am not saying that we don’t have a common understanding and unity among the local community, there just should not be a borderline for respecting and accepting each other.

Ohh, this book. I am publishing this book on the 3rd of this month! You should come! The title of this book is "Sweet Butter Tea". It is a collection of poems. I have been writing for the past 3 years. I never dreamed of putting them in a book. Yet, I met this generous person Kerry. She was so fond of my writings. She pushed me to publish them and she is willing to fund me. So that is how this book came about! 

How would I describe myself? Ahhh.. I am a lazy artist! Ha ha ha ha. I like acting, I like singing, I like writing, I like all these kind of artistic things! 

Thank you for the interview and thank you for posting it on the same date of my book’s launch! It means a lot to me and my friends! "

Tenzing Phuntsok, Dharamshala
Interview and Photo by Kunsang Tenzing


Daniel & Matt, Dharamshala.





 We’re just on holiday here in Dharamshala from Dehli, but we are originally from England. We came here as we had always intended on coming back. The other choice was Karnataka, but because it’s the raining season there and it’s further than Delhi we decided on Dharamshala. 

Five years ago was our first and last time here. This time we made our first pit stop at the very same place as when it was our first time here. The same date with five years on, the same coffee at the same coffee shop. There is something special about this place.

The coffee shop has the same tables, the same interior and the same menu. Above all the quality is still as good as before. However, business wise the price has doubled, there are less foreign tourists here, it has become noisier and dirtier all around. It feels the same on the inside but the surroundings and effects from the outside have definitely changed. Still one of our favourite locations here are cafe budan and the mount view to look at the scenery, it is breathtaking.

Initially the first time we came to Dharamshala was to get a feel of the Tibetan culture and politics. We had read so much on the Dalai Lama and wanted to get to know his people. Culturally we find Tibetans incredibly interesting, they appear to have such an alternative culture to any other. They dress nicely, listen to rock music, live their lives like any other, but even though they are in exile, they are very much aware of international issues. There still is a very conservative feel about the Tibetans within their circles and they have a tradition that they are passionate to uphold, but they are also very much open to the international world and their norms.

It is so refreshing to be here amongst the people who inhabit this area. It feels like we are all the same and equal to each other.
Daniel & Matt

Interview created by Kunsang Tenzin
Edited by Yasmine Tanwidjaja-Pajares
Photo taken by Kunsag Tenzin







Sunday, October 4, 2015

The jeweller, Dharamshala.


I was born into a very poor Indian family just outside of Norbulinga. In 7th grade I started working part-time cutting grass to support myself and my family. Then in 10th grade I was selling clothes. By 12th grade I felt confident enough to work in a guesthouse away from home. I didn’t know what to expect as I only knew of family life and people from my village. 

The guesthouse opened a whole new perspective. I had never conversed let alone seen a foreign person in my life before. I felt like “now I see the world, I see reality more clearly.” My mind, body, everything was full of energy. I started to pick up words in different languages, my boss taught me how to play the Digdoo instrument. It became a spare time hobby to play it on the streets. When I was 19 years old a Canadian woman approached me and offered me to be a part of her workshop in Goa. She needed someone to play this instrument to heal patience of hers. I couldn’t refuse the offer: moving to South India, having shelter and food provided, as well as 1,000 Rps per night. My life couldn’t have been any more sorted. She opened my eyes in a more spiritual way by teaching me how to heal people with my instrument and how to teach and practice yoga and meditation. I would do this job seasonally and then come back to the guesthouse for the rest of the year.

I met a very special girl when I was 21 at the guesthouse. I can not tell you how much she took my breath away. She was from Israel and studying Ayurvedic medicine. I fell in love. We would go on trips around India together and spend unforgettable days. For 2 years our love was so strong and incomprehensible. It was tough because she was only able to come seasonally, study for 4 months, go away for 3 months and then come back again for 4 months. But we managed, during the time apart I was busy with work just as she was back home in Israel.

After two years it started to become difficult though... I couldn’t help myself but fulfil my needs somehow. We remained another 3 years together but I couldn’t do this relationship anymore. I had to tell her the truth and come clean. I was heartbroken to tell her but telling the truth is better than living a lie, you know. My heart shattered into more pieces when she revealed she hadn’t been so honest herself in the past 5 years!

Even though I felt like dying on the inside, looking back from the beginnings of my simple life to then falling into a very active one, the most beautiful moment was the flow of love. Sure, we have our ups and downs and what happened with the Israeli girl was out of my control but finally if something just doesn’t FEEL right it is SENSELESS to force something to work.

I felt I had to make something of myself and that she needed that too. That is love too – letting go even though deep down you may not want to. I set up a market stall which I can proudly call my own and still have it ‘til this day. The time came for me to get married and I would joke to everyone if they knew anybody. My sister and mother both showed me a picture of a girl. Oh my gosh, how could this be?! I knew this girl! We worked together when I was at 10th grade selling clothes! How did this girl come into my life in another time? My sister and mother both didn’t know that we knew each other. When I saw her something clicked, it felt like it was meant to be. So I agreed to get to know each other and we got married. Now we have a baby boy and I couldn’t be any happier with my life.

One thing I have learnt about love is that you should not have any expectations or make any assumptions. It is inextricable to explain the power that one feels when you are attracted to someone. One glimpse and that can even feel intensely electrifying- like “kick” in your stomach and your eyes. You enjoy it from within when you are caught up in that moment. Even when there is distance you can still feel that person with the vibrations of your heart (he breaths in), it’s like light being brought into your being.
Mediation can be taught, the position, the breathing, what and how to imagine but to really feel it from within nobody can truly teach you how and what to feel. It’s not the same for you or I, it’s more about the journey, I can not explain any further as feelings can not be described sometimes, just as love can not be understood if it is not felt from within.
Anonymous, Age 30.

Interview created & edited by Yasmine Tanwidjaja-Pajares
Photograph taken by Yasmine Tanwidjaja-Pajares

Ten Phun, Dharamshala


I was born in Lhasa. I am a city boy. I came to India as my aunt encouraged me to go to India and study here. I came to India in the year of 1999. That time, I was only 10 years old. It took around two weeks to reach Dharamshala. The journey was light as compared to other people but the border patrol was something which always scared me.

Since 1999, I have been living in India. The biggest difficulty being in McLeod Ganj is that I live alone. Thus, there were many times where I was home sick, I felt lonely, I felt alone but it is something, which I have to adapt with. 

Yes, you are right. McLeod Ganj is changing a lot. It used to be clam and peaceful as well as clean. Now look at this town! Yes, we can say that it has grown up from a small town to a city! But people who come here for travel; they are not taking care of this place. Garbage is everywhere, so much noise of car! It is unbelievable! I wish and hope that people who come here to visit should take care of this town! 

Beside from that, it is very true that Indian government has given us shelter and support. Therefore, we are in Dharamshala. I know that even this little piece of land, McLeod Ganj belongs to India. Yet, I believe that we should have more understanding, more unity within the local community. You know what I mean, not like we are Tibetan or we are Indian, it is more about we are McLeod Ganjian! But, I am not saying that we don’t have understanding and unity among the local community, there is no borderline for being good to each other.

Ohh, this book. I am publishing this book on the 3rd of this month! You should come! The title of this book is Sweet Butter Tea. It is a collection of poems. I have been writing for past 3 years. I never dreamed of putting them in a book. Yet, I met this generous person Kerry. She was so fond of my writings. She pushed me to publish them and she is willing to fund me. So that is how this book came out! 

How would I describe my self? Ahhh.. I am a lazy artist! Ha ha ha ha. I like acting, I like singing, I like writing, I like all these kind of art! 

Thank you for the interview and thank you for posting it on the same date of my book’s launch! It means a lot for me and for my friends! 

Tenzing Phuntsok, Dharamshala
Interview and Photo by Kunsang Tenzing


Travellers, Dharamshala



We’re just on holiday here in Dharamshala from Dehli, but we are originally from England. We came here as we had always intended on coming back. The other choice was Karnataka, but because it’s the raining season there and it’s further than Delhi we decided on Dharamshala. 

Five years ago was our first and last time here. This time we made our first pit stop at the very same place as when it was our first time here. The same date with five years on, the same coffee at the same coffee shop. There is something special about this place.

The coffee shop has the same tables, the same interior and the same menu. Above all the quality is still as good as before. However, business wise the price has doubled, there are less foreign tourists here, it has become noisier and dirtier all around. It feels the same on the inside but the surroundings and effects from the outside have definitely changed. Still one of our favourite locations here are cafe budan and the mount view to look at the scenery, it is breathtaking.

Initially the first time we came to Dharamshala was to get a feel of the Tibetan culture and politics. We had read so much on the Dalai Lama and wanted to get to know his people. Culturally we find Tibetans incredibly interesting, they appear to have such an alternative culture to any other. They dress nicely, listen to rock music, live their lives like any other, but even though they are in exile, they are very much aware of international issues. There still is a very conservative feel about the Tibetans within their circles and they have a tradition that they are passionate to uphold, but they are also very much open to the international world and their norms.

It is so refreshing to be here amongst the people who inhabit this area. It feels like we are all the same and equal to each other.
Daniel & Matt

Interview created by Kunsang Tenzin
Edited by Yasmine Tanwidjaja-Pajares
Photo taken by Kunsag Tenzin

Love Story, Dharamshala.


I am going to share the reality of life. I have been keeping it inside for a long time. I don’t want my name to be known nor my photo taken but I want my story to be told. And since we met and since you do ‘Humans Of Dharamshala’, I want to let it all out and let all the people out there know. 
I have locked my feelings inside. I wanted to be perfect. I wanted to please everyone. I wanted to be the good guy. I wanted to be the happy guy. I wanted to be the best of the best! To become that, I have sacrificed so many things in life. You might be wondering why I wanted to be the best of the best. It was all for that girl. 

I wanted to have her and impress her! I wanted to be in her sight all the time! I wanted to be her Mr. Perfect. I wanted to be her light! I wanted to be the one and only man for her!

I came all the way to Dharamshala for her! I left my job! I left my family! I left my friends! Most of all, I left my home! Only because of her! 
Now, I am jobless. I don’t have a dream! I am lost! I am stuck! I am lonely! I depend on my family for pocket money! Simply because she has someone already! 

Life is strange! Love is sweet poison. I am a foolish man! I need to wake up and accept the reality! I have to be normal but IT IS NOT HAPPENING! 
It has been almost a year since I am in the town where she lives. I am slowly dying! Days are dark and nights are long. Alcohol has been a good company throughout this never ending painful journey. The journey, to find my self. I want to pour all of these feelings out to someone but I know I will be seen as a looser in front of others! I don’t want that! I bury my feelings. I bury myself. I bury everything. I let go of MY self!

Now, I guess, the time has come! I have to move on. I want to live my life for me and not for her! This place, for others it has a huge positive vibe but for me it is different. It kills me. I want don’t want to be here anymore. I am leaving soon. I am going back to my hometown. I am going back to my self. I am flying on 23 Oct of this year. 

Interview created by Kusang Tibet Tenzin


Dawa Rinchen, Dharamshala.


My parents are both Tibetan and followed His Holiness the Dalai Lama to India in 1959 during the Chinese invasion. I was born in the northern part of India, in Nathula, part of the Himalayan State of Sikkim the closest border point to Tibet. My exact date of birth is unknown but I know it was the winter of 1964. So I self declared my birthday to be on the 16th December 1964 – haha. Until the age of seven I was in Sikkim. Then we moved to near my school in Karnataka as His Holiness the Dalai Lama had a resettlement project there and so it became a large Tibetan community. In 1989 I then moved to Dharamshala because of my job. I was transferred here to give up my services as the personal security to His Holiness the Dalai Lama. I served His Holiness until July 1993. Since then I have remained here, because I love the place, and it has become His Holiness home too so I thought this would be the best place to live.

The most important reason for my survival and success in life is believing in myself and listening to the advice of my father, and then also being very respectful and friendly with all kinds of people: whether they are rich, whether they are poor, whether they are old, whether they are young, whether they are foreigners, whether they are Tibetans or non-Tibetans.

Life has taught me how to be respectful. Life has taught me how to be strong. Life has taught me how to be successful. Life has taught me how to be polite and how to be available to serve people. All these elements you learn firstly from your parents, right? The second step is by experiencing the different situations, tackling different circumstances. So you learn that and most importantly how to direct your mind towards positive things. You know, when you direct your mind toward positivity then you can always find positive things, and then you experience good which makes you want to always practice and implement good. By doing that we always experience deep pleasure. When you experience such pleasure then you want to engage in it more often and that’s where implementation comes in. With more practice that gives you the confidence, that gives you the strength to follow and then utilize your time in a fulfilling way. The by-products are your health, wealth, friendships, and as this all grows more and more, you become more appreciative of your surroundings... “You think good, you do good, and then you talk good.” So when you do that then you keep yourself happy and others happy. It has nothing to do with the spiritual practice, you see. This is what human beings should just simply do.

Predominantly my father inspires me. He has a very honest and straightforward character. So those traits were the first lessons I learnt from my father, to not hold anything back. When you have something on your mind then just say it rather than keeping it inside and feeling bad or having any doubts – just say it. Secondly I have been inspired by so many people, such as my teachers, older and younger generations, you know so many people. I can’t pinpoint anyone but the most effective impact was by His Holiness the Dalai Lama. Being very close to him for nearly 24 hours every day for 4 years and looking into his daily activities, his spiritual teachings have encouraged me to do something much better than what I should be doing. It has actually boosted me to go further.
If I had the power to do anything in the world I would like to relieve suffering. I would love to do that. Eradicating the suffering of mankind. But I don’t think wishing something is realistic. Your wish, your desire and any kind of craving cannot be transformed into reality. That is the limitation of human beings I think. Every second of every day I wish I could do something, like this and that but we can only do things within our own kind of capacity. So, I would say that if I was paid to do anything in the world then I would focus on doing good things, starting right from the person next to you, whoever this person is, and then a larger group. Just do good. No more explanation is needed.

I love myself the most of course. I really don’t want to play a drama in my life. I would cherish my own life the most because I don’t want to die, you see. So because of that, people like to become enlightened and that is a sort of self cherishing act, but then Buddhism says that self-cherishing is the most difficult part of life to delegate and abandon, so to follow that practice we really need to invest good time in ourselves. Unfortunately I don’t always have that time for myself, so why should I not cherish my life as much as possible?! When you cherish yourself you don’t harm others. When you help others you receive it back in some form. People help you, people love you, people like you. You see, it is for your own sake. To keep yourself healthy you have to be respectful and helpful to others. A person who does not love oneself can never love others. That is the logic and reality, right?
When I’m off from work, I always like to think. Just to be alone and think. I think about so many different things. My life. Others’ lives. The Tibetan situation. The environment and also about the world, how amazing this world is in which we exist in. All this thinking keeps me going. This reflection process of life and others’ is an analysis of your time how you exist and survive. You can’t just jump into things, work and engage. You need time to think during your spare time, for your own sake. What you are doing and how amazing this world is and how the surroundings are, and how other people are spending their life. You can think about animals, you can think about the environment, you can think about spiritual stuff. Sometimes you may think you know things from the first instance but then that kind of believe that you hold onto can be very dangerous, therefore, things in your life and around you need to be analysed.

My life motto and my wish is to be kind to others. But then the extent to which you can carry that and how strong you are is questionable. It is not easy. Saying something is easy, but doing something is really hard, isn’t it?! Motto is another word for motivation, right? Your motivation is behind your motto. So if your motivation isn’t there your motto is wrong, right?

I would say the younger generation, first of all need to think that life will never give you anything for free. You need to create it, you need to open doors, you need to work hard, you need to believe in yourself. Be confident, ok?! And you cannot fully depend on others. You see we are dependent. Everyone is dependent, but before you can depend on others you need to bring yourself on such a level on which others can depend on you. Suppose you are doing nothing and you are asking something from the government or you are asking something of a friend or family, why should they support you?! You have done nothing, you are not trying to do anything. You are just there! That can’t work. You need to start, you need to struggle, you need to fail in life. With time you get support: you get moral support, you get financial support, you get a kind of hand to hand support and so many things happen along the way. But you need to start. You can’t just depend on others. You know there are many ups and downs, it happens. So you really need to prove yourself that you have potential to do something and just go for it and do it!
Dawa Rinchen (Age 51)

Photo created by Kunsang Tenzing
Interview created by Kunsang Tenzing & Yasmine Tanwidjaja-Pajares
Edited by Yasmine Tanwidjaja-Pajares

The Brave women, Dharamshala



I arrived to India at the age of 21 in 1994. My main purpose of leaving Tibet by myself was to study and work. However I was considered as too old to receive a proper education and so I had to attend the Soga School for elders with a limited range of subjects. Still, I was determined to make something of myself. I managed to get a job as a housekeeper at Kirti, a Tibetan monastery. There I met my husband and became a mother to two sons. My husband was a very loving and responsible father and we both raised our children in a loving family home. I felt I had everything I wanted. My husband provided me with a safety blanket that I had never felt before. But there was one Chinese woman who kept on coming every day to our home. I then saw my husband with this Chinese woman one late evening. I put one and two together and suspected them of having a relationship. I felt distraught, hurt, powerless and wrapped in fury. I decided to leave for four days without a word. Without a call from my husband or even an attempt in finding me, I felt more abandoned than ever. Divorce was the only option in my eyes. Naturally as a mother I was worried about the effects this could have on my children’s wellbeing. At the same time what was I supposed to do in this situation, living in an unhappy household could also affect our children in a negative way. I could not stand for it and went forth with the divorce. I worked hard once again. This time I set up a market stall and survived on items sold. Then one day at the Luthiana market I met my second husband. But cracks in our relationship started to unravel themselves soon after we got married, and I moved in with him and his mother. His mother made my life difficult, and he fell into a habit of gambling which forced me to work double as hard. I felt drained. We got divorced. My second husband was filled with so much anger that he took all of my market stall items and sold them at a very cheap price, sometimes he even just gave them away as if nothing. Heartbroken and penniless I felt robbed off my dignity, independence and fearlessness. Still I was the best mother that I could be to my children throughout and visited them every second weekend at the Tibetan Children Village School. Seeing that I had no other relatives, the only people who supported me were all of my neighbours whom I could confide in like brothers and sisters. Especially three of my very good friends that I had made along the way of all my hardship, they have been fortunate enough to move abroad and are now trying to help me get out of the situation and move out of the country by sending me some of their savings. I consider myself as fortunate and full of hope with such a powerful network and community filled with such loving individuals next to me.
Anonymous (Age 42)

Photo and Interview created by Kunga Tenzin
Edited by Yasmine Tanwidjaja-Pajares

The new guy, Dharamshala.


“Hello everyone. Especially the people in Dharamshala. I am from Jogiwara road. Most people here on this road know me as I used to be a rough and tough guy. I used to do things that I shouldn’t have done. I would ride my bike up and down that would make this crazy loud sound. Many of the old people hated it but I didn’t know or care why.”



“Now, I have changed. I gave up all the bad habits and I am trying to stop smoking too. People around me, especially my friends and family are so happy about my decision. In the first phase, it was difficult to give up my bad habits. I had such a difficult time but now I am totally fine. “



“Now I have a reason to live but before, I just used to live my life. It is totally different and brighter!”



“Now I get why people hated my loud bike. Even I hate it. It has been ages since I last drove it. It is all covered in dirt.”



“Right now, I live here alone but soon I am heading to US to live with my family. I want other guys who are involved in bad things to stop. Nothing good comes out of doing bad things. Yes, you might feel that you are cool at that moment. But actually, you are not! You are just cool to die fast, you are just cool to make your family sad, you are just cool to make the society look down on you. Thus, if you really want to be cool, then be nice!” 



“Living in Dharamshala has taught me so many things. I have seen all kinds of people. I have met all kinds of people. I have mingled with different people. I guess that all helped me to grow up. So, in a nutshell, this place plays a huge role in making me a normal person."

Interview and photo credit: Kunsang Tenzing
Edited by Yasmine Tanwidjaja-Pajares


Tattoo guys, Dharamshala.

“We are a team of 4 youths who came to India, Tenzin Kelsang, Tenzin Choezin, Tenzin Dadhen and Thupten Kelsang. We are tattoo artist. We guess, the only Tibetan tattoo studio in this town.” 

“Life in Dharamshala is good and nice but we really lack plat forms for artist, especially entrepreneurs. For us, starting up this studio was so difficult as the startup cost were pretty expensive. Thank god that one of our friend Migmar Tsering helped us. We didn’t have any support from the NGOs or the government.”

“Tattoo in our community is difficult to survive, so, mainly our customers are tourist. Tibetans have a believe that having tattoo will make your soul difficult to travel for next life. Thus, majority of the elder generations hate the concept of Tattoo. Yet, now a days, many youths have tattoo. We hardly have any tattoo artist among the youths as they don’t know how much money you can make by being a tattoo artist.”

“We don’t save a lot as many of our friends are unemployed, so we share what we have as after all we live as a family. Most of our families are in Tibet.”

“It has been three years since we have this studio. During these three years, we learned a lot about business as well as tattoo. This studio is also our home, sweet home. We spend most of our time here. We love this place. We are always trying to make it the most wonderful place to visit in this town."

“We don’t know about the future but one thing is for sure, where ever we go, we will miss this time! We are one of the best team, a cool team, a wonderful team and the tattoo team. We are going to break the walls and make Tattoo a viral among the community!”

Interview and Photo;Kunsang Tenzing

Raju, Dharamshala.



“I did BA in arts. I am married and I have three children. My wife is a tailor and I have this vegetable stall here in McLeod Ganj. 

“Vegetable business is a tough one. If you can’t sell it on time, then you will have loss. I travel 10 km from my home to the stall. I open around 7am and go to home around 8pm. it is around 13 hours a day. I want to sleep late and take rest as I am getting old but me and my wife have to send the kids to school. Our eldest daughter is doing her Masters, our second daughter, she is doing her B-com and then our son, he is doing his +2.”

“Life is difficult. I can’t save any money at all as the school fees are expensive. Then food, clothes and everything is becoming so expensive.”

“I come home exhausted and my wife too. We hardly talk but once when we have dinner with our kids, then everything changes. The table is filled with little food that we have. We have talk, we share and we are happy. Then all of my tiredness get disappear. It is the most beautiful time of the day.” 

“Most of my customers are Tibetan. They are nice and kind. I am glad that I am doing business with mainly Tibetans as they are the one of the best customers you can have. I am glad that McLeod Ganj is mainly filled with Tibetans.” 

"I being an Indian, I welcome them to India. I don’t know exactly how it feels to be a refugee but I am sure that it is difficult for Tibetans to leave their country. I don’t know very well about whole situation but I know that Dalai Lama is very nice man and Tibetans are too. I hate China.”

Photo And Interview: Kunsang Tenzing


Friday, September 18, 2015

Dor & Yarden, Dharamshala.



“We are from Isreal. We have travel almost all over India. Right now we are in Mcleod Ganj.”

“I think.. ahhh ..I don’t know Dharamshala but  McLeod is one of the most special place in the world. I think I can call it a capital of hipster Tibet. It is like a small Europe but with indian and  Tibetan twist.”

“We stayed here two weeks and we will come back for sure. We really wish to stay longer but we have to travel more."

“Things that we love about McLeod Ganj… ahhhh Gon, so many things man. So many. We love the people, the food and atmosphere, you and Digsin (name of a puppy).”

“Beside from that, we love the Hard Rock Cafe. It is so simple and the best.” 

“What do we think about Dharamkot? It is different from here. The view is good and it is quite but too many Israelis. But here in McLeod Ganj, there is a huge positive vibe around. So we prefer to stay in McLeod Ganj.” 

“The best part about this town is the Hope Gallery and the photos were so cool. Thus we want to be part of this gallery. Therefore, we decided to have a photo shoot with Hope Gallery. We will remember this place. The photos turned out to be so great.! We love them. Thank you.”


Interview and Photo credit: Kunsang Tening

Story of a political prisoner, Dharamshala.





“I was 15 years old when I went to prison.  I was a monk at the time.  The Chinese police were everywhere. Even we have to get permission to fetch drinking water from the near by well.  The monastery has to pay the expenses of the stationed patrols, such as money cigarettes, alcohol and everything.  Moreover, they won’t let us practice the daily prayer session and on top of all that we have to attend daily lessons about culture revolution. “

“Thus, in the year of 1998,  me and four other friends, went to protest with our slogans. We told ourselves that, this is the end of our life but we were not afraid. We were happy and confident about what we are going to do.”

“Maybe we get around 3 minutes to do the demonstration and then we were surrounded by plain cloth police, police as well as army.  They all stumbled on me and my friends. We were pushed down on to the ground and hand cuffed us. We were put in a line and within a friction of a second, there was an army van near us. We were all forced into the van and drove off.”

“I felt a ball, they were kicking us from all directions. You know, the army boots, they are so strong. One of the army hit my eyes and I couldn’t see at all. I guess we drove for around half an hour.”

“Once we reached the near by station, me and my friends were separated. It was so scary. Dogs, batons, a uniformed army and none of my friends were there. I demanded where my friends were and every question was answered with a baton.”

“I was interrogated. The same question again and again. They will ask you mainly three things: Who told you to do the demonstrations? Who told you about Tibet? Who is supporting you?”

“They have a huge notion that we were being educated from exile. We were put into force to do demonstrations and finally they think that there is a secret school within Tibet where we learn about Tibet. They have no clue at all.”

“I repeated with the same answer, I am the one!”

“That time, I could bear all the torture. There was a huge energy within me. Even though I was pushed so many times on the ground. I stood up again and again. I shouted, free Tibet, long live Dalai Lama and China get out of Tibet. Now when I look back, I couldn’t understand where I got that brave heart. from”

“I won’t be able to tell you every detail but I will definitely share some moments which even now a days sometimes haunt me.”

“When I was moved to jail, the first few days,  I was stripped and tied up to a poll in the middle of the ground. They really try to crush your personality, dignity, faith and everything that you have.”
“Yes, I was crushed but I didn’t loose hope though. I stood strong.”

“Then another moment which was really sad is, along with us there were other normal prisoners too. They could have family visits as often as us. Usually these prisoners didn’t eat prison food and threw it in the sink. So one day, the toilet was blocked and all the political prisoners were called in. We were asked to dig out everything.  We piled it up. We were made to sit down in a circle and asked to eat it. At first, we ate. Yes, we did. We were so hungry. But later on when we were full, then we realized that we have been eating shit.”

“Wow. It was horrifying. It was such a sad moment for all of my prison mates.  We puked. We stared at each other. We cried. We hugged each other. We were separated with batons and other weapons. ‘Now, where is your Buddha? Where is your Dalai Lama?’ shouted the main police officer.  One of my prison mates shouted, “He is in our heart.” We all clapped, as at least that was what we could do. Again, we were crushed to the earth.”

“Another prison mate, was beaten so badly during an interrogation. He couldn’t sleep the whole night. On the next day, we demanded a medical checkup for him. Police came in and started beating him again, they were yelling at him saying don’t pretend. We know you are not sick.  They left him in pain and us in silence. Later that night, he was not moving but he was breathing. He was clinging onto his life.  We should from the bar, police came in, they took him and he never returned. “

“Huuuuuu… “ 

There was silence for a while. It seems like things are flashing back. I stood still, my pen trembling.  My eyes were holding my tears. I just waited for him to catch the interview again.

“You can not know how difficult life in prison was. It is so hard. But I never felt hatred towards those Chinese officers. I felt pity. They really don’t know anything about being good, wise and honorable men.  I prayed for them.”

“Well, then I came to India after I was released.  I guess that is pretty much what people should know about.”